cold /warm idle volts with stage 2 kit

[choochoo]

Mike I have an 01 flhtci.
Did the screaming eagle stage two kit (95" big bore and 203 cams).
Now bike doesn't idle. Need to turn up the cold idle a little.
Stock per manual following the directions in testing is .64 to .68
what would I expect to set it at now with the kit.
Ecm is still stock, will be taking it in next month for reprogram.
But need to get idle set now to get some breaking hours in on bike here in the garage.

Thanks

[Mike]

We kind of throw out the voltage settings and go by cold and hot idle speeds and startup flare. Be sure the cold idle ISC screw is not overriding the hot idle screw. You can confirm by getting the motor warm and backing out the cold idle ISC allen set screw, then turning the hot idle screw in or out to confirm that it really is controlling idle. Once done, screw the cold idle screw in just enough to cause the motor to "flare" to about 1300 rpm each time it is started. It should settle right back to your hot idle in a few moments. Of course all this only works if the TP is properly set and all three setting change each time the tp is changed, so it can be fun at times to get all three to sync up. Know that changeing tp also changes ignition timing at idle. Scribe the tp to the t-body so you can get it back to factory if things get out of control. Then loosen the screws and move it ever so little to see if idle speed and quality improve with. Just like setting a carb mix screw, look for the best overall idle. Moving the sensor clockwise richens the mix and advances timing. It takes VERY little moves to make BIG changes and may take a number of tries to get it where you like it. Once done, set the idle speeds as described above. You may have to fine tune the "flare"/cold start setting when the bike is cold (usually too high when set hot and has to be backed down slightly). This all assumes the ISC motor/linkage and ET sensor are working properly.
Mike