apparent oil pressure problem

[choochoo]

Well Mike the 01 flhtci is outside.
Started it and idled it a few times and gradually increased and lowered rpms breaking in the new 95 inch kit with the S/E 203 cams.

Oil pressure seemed a little low so put a mechanical gauge on it. I get about 30 psi max

Well I did this two or three days in a row.

Today I had it running and it sounds like a valve (s) may be sticking open or is that a normal
sound to hear from the air intake with these valves?
Kind of a flutter sound.
I used the stock push rods as there was no warning to use adjustable or shorter in the kit.

Also the longer it ran the less oil pressure I got and the lifters started ticking.

I did NOT pull the oil pump when I did the cams and I was meticulous following the service manual
about shims, tolerances, o'rings etc.

Have you an idea on the valves and the oil pressure.

Rebuilt a lot of motors in my time but this is the first TC 88

Starting to rain and snow here so will be a couple days at least.

Thanks Mike

[Mike]

Typically on a cold motor the oil pressure will be around 45+ until hot (180-210 oil temp). Once hot the pressure typ. is around 30-35 when running at 3k rpm steady. It may drop to about 15 when idling (hot). The 203's with stock pushrods should be similar to the motor before the install as far as noise. The 99's and 01's had the "A" oil pump version and aligment is critical (we recommend upgrading to the "B" version). The ticking lifters kind of confirm that pressure may be low and require investigation. We also make a higher pressure bypass spring kthat increases pressure by 15% (LMR-002, $12.95) and this may help but we do not want to mask a potentially serious problem.
Mike

[choochoo]

The bike is still in garage, not been on road yet.
First couple times I started it it seemed ok, no ticking and about 30 psi oil pressure up to about 2500 rpm.
I don't believe I removed the oil pump during the cam change (was 4 years ago can't remember that far back). But could it have shifted anyway? Causing the problem now?
I will look into the B version next month after I return to work.
Like I said. This is the 3rd or 4th time I have started the bike since the rebuild, and now the pressure problem / ticking has started/
didn't do it the first couple times.
when running at about 1500 rpm, engine has a LOT of intake suction, dang near sucked my hand into the throttle body, while checking for any reverse air flow. Starts easy and no backfiring.
Thanks for any helpyou can offer.

[Mike]

I wouldn't expect it to move and since it's a feed problem does not sound like an out of place or hardened o-ring. The high intake suction seems curious and I'm trying to remember another bike that had the same issue and what was done to correct (I believe it was a Sportster with cams out of time). You can get ticking of the front exh pushrod on first starts after sitting since this is the valve that ends up open when the motor stops turning when shut off. You say the the cams were installed 4 years ago and thess are the first fire ups? If so the pressure regulating bypass valve may not be returning to it's closed position ro slightly sticking in the open position. We've seen this before and would first on my list (good time to install our spring).
Mike

[choochoo]

sorry to take so long to get back, but things came up.
This was a very good running motor (about 7000 miles) before the upgrade.
I did the upgrade as I had the time and inclination as I also stripped frame and painted,
redid all wiring (longer and shorter) as I did not put fairing back on.
so I procrastinated about 4 years.
But yes this was the first fireup.
First couple times no ticking or clattering, but the last two fire ups after about 5 minutes it started.
Do I have to pull cam support plate to do the presurre spring?
what about the new b series pump versus the spring?
Should I pull the pump and thoroughly clean it or just spray the spring cavity with cleaner and clean
and re-assemble?

Yes cam timing is correct. ( about the intake suction). Thanks for any and all info!

[Mike]

No worries on the time.
1. You do not have to pull the web plate to install the spring. Our instructions will show you what to do.
2. Definetly upgrade the oil pump, the "A" pumps are problematic. H-D has increased the price on the "B" pump to the point that the Fueling pump is now only about $50.00 more and this makes the Fueling pump a good option.
3. Use the spring along with either the "B" or Fueling pump. Fueling actually tells you to stretch the stock spring when installing their pump. We do not recommend this and to use ours instead. Much more stable over time.
4. Our instructions suggest that the bypass plunger be removed an lightly polished when installing the spring. This however requires removing the chain tensioner and makes the install more complicated, possibly requiring web plate removal. If your replacing the pump, this will not be an issue as the plate will have to be removed anyway.
Mike

[choochoo]

Well I ordered the upgrade spring assembly from you all and it came today.
I also ordered all the o'rings for a complete oil pump removal just in case.
Going to try the spring only first.
don't have the cash right now for the "B" oil pump.
Hopefully just the spring assembly will work.

will let you know what happens when I get this done.

[Mike]

10-4
Mike