07 ultra

[heritage]

Mike, I was interested in the 07 UC but reading the threads on V-Twin and HD Forums about rocks in a can noises ,I decided to wait and see what happens.The MOCO knows about the noise but not the cause.I understand some noise from trans due to differant cut gears,high heat from engine due to lean condition(fixed with tune)and probably sound reflection from fairing/windshield but has your team heard of this and figured out anything.I'm thinking that the new pri.chain tensioner maybe the culpret.Any insite on this would be appreciated.P.S. I guess this is just happening on some Utras not all.Maybe a build date thing.Thanks

[Mike]

To date it seems to be touring models only. There are two possible noise sources. One is the new compensator/alternator setup and the other is the trans. As you already have discovered, the trans can make noise at very low speeds with a light drive train load, typ. in 4th and 5th gears. It appears to be backlash or possibly side thrusting of the helical gears. The compensator ramps apparentlly have been redesigned and may have more free travel, though we have not confirmed this. So far we do not believe the tensioner plays a part though many have jumped on this since it is a new part. H-D has issued a statement saying these noises are normal for the conditions causing them. They further state that those same conditions should not be experianced if the bike is operated as recommended (I.E., do not lug the motor, pulling it down into those rpms where the noises can occur). H-D has not had any acceptable remedies to date. The fact that it seems to be unique to touring models may be an indication of the different loads and riding styles associated with them vs. Dyna's and Softails. We have found that replacing the trans. fluid with RedLine Shock Proof Heavy transmission oil seems to help (not "officially" recommended by H-D). Warranty impact of using this oil has yet to be determined. To date there have not been any failures associatted with these noises. We'll keep you posted as we learn more.
Thanks, Mike

[heritage]

Thanks for the reply.I can see where lugging an 800#,lean running bike would cause eccessive noise in the drive train.But I'll patiently wait to see what will be done if anything.I have been getting a parts list ready for when I do purchase an Ultra and wanted to go with true dual exh.Was thinking about the FulsacPerformance dual exh. kit that just removes the y pipe.But performance wouldn't be as good as stepped head pipes,correct?I want to use either the D&D police intercepter slipons or their other slipons that are 3 1/2" for an Ultra(I can't think of the name),it all depends on loudness.Have Fatcats on my Heritage and don't want the Ultra that loud.Would like your opinion on the head pipes.The SERT and A/C are on the list.Thanks again

[Mike]

The stock head pipes will outperform the Fulsac's when the Y pipe restriction is removed (easily done with a die grinder) with similar slip-ons. If true duals are a must have then go with a stepped design like Rhinehart or Caliber. Long single diameter head pipes just do not work well and this has been demonstrated many times and becomes even more true as performance levels increase. Quite mufflers will also enhance low end torque with these pipes (both have quite baffles available).
Thanks, Mike

hi mike

been reading alot of your post wish i lived close to oregon.
? Going to install a SE AC and remap with the race tuner
should i remove the Y pipe restriction for more performance?

2006 Road King Classic

Is the restrictor right inside the Y ?

regards
jan

I have Vance and hines slip ons installed

[Mike]

On a 103ci touring bike making approx 115hp, removing the restriction was good for 4 hp. This was a true A-B test with the bike tuned for each application. The restriction has less of an effect as the hp level goes down but there is no negative side to removing it, also. If you remove the "y" pipe (rear head pipe) and look down from where the front head pipe mates, you will see that the end of the rear down pipe protrudes into the exhaust path coming from the front. We simply use a die grinder to remove the protrusion so that when looking down the pipe you see a clear straight through path for the exhaust gases.
Thanks, Mike