FUELING OIL PUMP AND REED VALVE

[Skeeter]

MIKE,</p>

Anothter question about the 107&quot; motor the Fueling oil pump, machince work?and the reed valve. First of all I guess I will ask if it is the S&amp;S reed valve.</p>

I was told by?the famous head porter?@ BHP &quot;If considering the S&amp;S reed valve .... Don`t! It has been more disappointment in it than you can imagine. Everytime one is installed it sumps the bottom end with oil and pulls? down the HP. Take it out and the power comes up dramatically&quot;. </p>

He also adds &quot;Use the Fueling oil pump and Latus LMR-002 spring for best results.&quot;?</p>

Thanks, Skeeter?</p>

?</p>

[Mike]

Not to be confused with the S&S reed valve. Our valve increases the breathing capacity between the flywheel cavity and cam chest and must be machined into the case. The idea is to relieve under piston pressure with the increased volume due to motor size. The S&S valve covers the pinion bearing and can act like a labrynth holding oil in the flywheel cavity causing the wetsumping described but does not increase breathing capacity. On this site we have a couple of dyno charts showing the effects of the wetsumping with the valve (tests and compare). We have the option of installing two valves but to date have only done this on one motor (170hp 124). Too much and we risk carry over of oil into the air cleaner because we can slightly pressurize the rocker covers via the pushrod tubes and oil drains (TC's drain the top end oil into the cam chest where EV's drained into the flywheel cavity) which prevents that oil from freely draining via gravity. We have experimented with just open slots (sim. to Sportsters) to allow for a slight neg. pressure on the piston upstroke, but these allow both the air and oil to re-enter the flywheel cavity. We'd like to keep the oil in the cam chest for the oil pump to scavenge, hince the reed valve. Note that we install these with other crankcase mods. to help oil scavenging and scrapping of the flywheels and then the fueling pump's higher capacity on the scavenge side helps and makes sense. We've had a price increase and now charge $175.00 for these crankcase mods. and reed valve install (add $85.00 for a second valve).
Thanks, Mike

[David Jackson]

Hi Mike;

My motor is still agart so there is still time ... you folks were kind enough to install your reed valve in my cases a short time ago. Are there other case mods which I need as well?

Regards;


David Jackson

[Mike]

We have no other mods at this time!
Thanks, Mike

[David Jackson]

Hi Mike;

So; all that needs to be done to my cases is done?

My flywheels come back from Notrhwest next week and my motor will be put together. I am hoping for the best.

If I wanted to ride up to your shop for a dyno tuning how much advance notice would you need? It is a very long 1 day or a more reasonable two day ride for me each way.

Regards;

David Jackson

[Mike]

I would try for a weeks notice. Our poor little dyno has been running nonstop for weeks now. We're installing the 250I over the weekend of 04-28-06 to replace our ageing 250. We intend to do before and after runs using a stock watercooled v-rod to confirm hp numbers between the two dyno's. Our Destroyer dyno'd within one hp of our dyno on the AHDRA dyno in Pheonix (also a 250I), so I'm not expecting a difference.
Thanks, Mike