For now .. 'Bye 'Bye Theory, these are the parts I have

[David Jackson]

To all:

For now 'bye 'bye theory (though I am trying to get the V Twin Tuner's Handbook, Vols 1 and 2 - out of print apparently though it may be getting a reprinting; and I have ordered Smokey's Power Secrets) and hello reality; these are the parts I have and I am seeking input for the best way to juggle them for this riding season. Next winter may be a whole new game.

I have the SE 113" kit set up for HTCC CNC Ported heads with appropriate pistons, cases going to Latus for the breather, an SE 51mm CV carb which has not been modified, with the SE air cleaner without the metal football cover.

I have three pipes, I found a used BoarZilla, I have a V&H Pro Pipe, and I have a set of SE slip ons.
I have a stock 5 speed tranny, and a BAKER DD6 just back from BAKER were it got refurbished (under warranty, BAKER is a good company). I have the new HD spring loaded primary tensioner and my old stock one along with the other spring loaded aftermarket item.

I have the SE 264 cam and I found a used SE 260 with less than 1,000 miles on it.

For this riding season I would like as much spunk as possible. I don't plan any long trips on this bike (I have an Ultra for that); just rides up and down the Feather River Canyon, and places like that.

My thought was to run the stock 5 speed, the stock primary chain tensioner, the slightly used 260 cams, and the BoarZilla. I have wondered about a velocity stack for the CV carb.

One and all, any thoughts?

Thanks Again Mike;

Regards;

David Jackson

[Mike]

The tuners handbooks are in stock at Baisley Hi-Performance (503-289-1251), both volumes plus the formula book. Cases arrived safe and should have done early next week. The 260 cam set will be better for the stock 10.5 compression but the 264 will make more power with 11.0 (not easy with the HTCC heads and pistons) for best performance. The jury's still out on the S.E. automatic chain tensioner in hi-ouput applications so we err to the stock setup (DO NOT run the after market spring loaded unit). Love the Boarzilla, hate the noise (loud). Great torque curve on big motors! 51 cv very user friendly and should be adequate especially when used with the 260 cams. Sounds like your set for a great time!
Regards, Mike

[David Jackson]

Hi Mike;

The young man I talked to at Baisley's was most helpful and he is sending me all three books.

He told me a little of your history with his Dad and told me that you were the inventor of the oil pump spring which I have seen mentioned here and there. I asked him to send one along; on faith alone basically.

Can you tell me a little of the rationale for these springs? He did tell me that the tapping in the valve gear I have heard while riding will go away because of better tappet oiling; however I bet there is more to it.

Another question; re parts I have: I am using lifters I used with my 264 cam for about 4,000 miles, plus or minus; and I have bought a set of 260 cams from a guy who said that he had used them in his bike for less than 1,000 miles. Am I asking for trouble mixing these two used valve train components?

Thanks again;

David Jackson

[Mike]

V-Twin Forum has a pretty big thread on the spring (what talk a little spring can generate!) and I believe most of it is positive but runs the gambit of "did nothing " to "cured all my problems". We do not promise the spring will completely eleminate tappet noise but, if not, should reduce it. The idea is as we increase valve spring pressure to control valve action, with high lift-fast ramp cams, this in turn puts more stress on the hydraulics in the lifters to keep up. Uping the pressure slightly keeps the tappets a little more solid by reducing bleed back rate. We also found a fair amount of inconsistancy in the stock spring, after profiling a few. So we came up with a higher coil count for greater consistancy, more progressive pressure rise and of course higher pressure. We also grind the ends to be as flat as possible for less installed length variance whan sitting against the roll pin that retains it. We found up to .030 variable depending on how the spring rests on the pin. This can add up to pretty inconsistant pressure. We have over 1200 installed and have had few reported problems. Those problems we have seen have been installation (pin driven through spring), sticking bypass valves or comparing oil presssures at different temperatures. The spring ups the pressure by 15% (based on the spring rates obtained on our profile sample) and so should only increase pressure by that much vs. the stock spring (typ. 1.5lbs at idle/5lbs at 3500 rpm @ 210 oil temp, increase). Some have reported increases in pressure of greater than 15% after installing our spring but we feel this has to be a function of the relief valve, difference in stock spring consistancy or some other change made at the same time (winter vs summer temps, new oil pump, etc). We install them in EVERY bike that is getting a cam set and have not seen these high pressures when the oil is at operating temp. As can be seen by our dyno library, we dyno a LOT of bikes and these problems have not been observed. We do recommend that the bypass valve be checked for smooth operation and lightly polished if any drag or sticking is felt, when installing the spring.
We do not recommend replacing the lifters with less than 7000 miles, as part of a cam change. 7-10 is kinda grey so we recommend they be changed and 10k+ pretty much say it must be done. This is also true of chains, tensioners and inboard bearings. The outboard bearings get changed as part of the install.
Thanks, Mike

[PUHB1]

Mike
While on the oil system topic are there any oiling system mods that you would suggest while doing a top end that can help scavenging and reduce windage. Contrary to most due to the larger scavenge gears I use the 99a stock pumps and just sand on a piece of glass the body to get a .001 clearance, and your spring of course. I have been considering the Feuling pump or the new HD pump and all of the associated cam gear if the aftermarket responds with conversion camshafts (inner bearing size issue, perhaps more issues I am not aware of). I have also considered alternative breather hose routing schemes. So where are we at on oiling and drainback. I am trying to squeeze every ounce out of a 95 but still remain with mild cam timing (tw6g) and compression (10/1) and Baisley SS heads. Baisley is doing all the machine work and I will have you tune it.

[Mike]

Dan and I have experimented with deepening the breather channels in the heads to help relieve pressure. Others have also drilled the oil return holes in the rocker bases (under the breather assy) to help reduce carryover. So far all of this has been inconclusive as to effectiveness. We tried alternate routing of the breathers on one 103 TC and ended up with oil pouring out of the air cleaner (even though the vents did not go to the a/c). It appears H-D is correct in that the balance of crankcase air flow in these motors is very sensitive. Our mods are currently confined to improving crankcase sump scavenging and requires the cases to be split (we do have a way to do some of the mods externally but it is not as neat). With those mods we like the Fueling pump. The Fueling pump may also have enough capacity to creat a small vacume in the crankcase which would also help (we suspect this but have no data to confirm).
Andrews debuted a kit in Cinnci. that retro's the new Dyna pump to other models. As you have indicated, it requires special cams. I cannot remember if it also updated to the hyd. tensioners.
Thanks, Mike